Muzzle devices are one of the biggest ways that you can change how your firearm behaves. A muzzle brake can tame excessive recoil, allowing you to comfortably shoot enough rounds to become truly proficient with your rifle. And the explosion of suppressor popularity is well deserved, suppressors reduce the noise of the gunshot, reduce recoil, and theoretically improve firearm accuracy and bullet velocity.
But all of this goodness requires that your firearm has muzzle threads. And we can help make that happen.
- 1/2" - 28 threads. This is the standard thread for AR-15's, anything in .22, .223, or 5.56 (or smaller) caliber, and some 9mm and .300 Blackout firearms. For most centerfire rifles, this thread is NOT recommended for calibers larger than .223, as the barrel wall (distance between the grooves of the rifling and the bottom of the threads) is too thin and you tend to have 'belling' of the muzzle, as the barrel diameter stretches with repeated shots. 9mm and .300 Blackout get away with it because they are such low pressure cartridges that they do not stretch the barrel. In order to safely mount a suppressor with this thread, the barrel diameter needs to be no less than .600". We can mount a muzzle device that is NOT a suppressor or a suppressor mount on any barrel that is at least .500" in diameter.
- 5/8"-24 threads. This is the 'standard' thread pattern for .30 caliber rifles, but really for any firearm larger than .22 caliber. In order to cut these threads, the barrel needs to be at least .625" in diameter, and it must be at least .725" to safely mount a suppressor on these threads.
- 9/16"-24 threads. While the 5/8"-24 is considered the standard thread pattern, and will typically be cut when possible, the fact is that a lot of hunting rifles have barrels simply too small to cut a 5/8" thread in. So, 9/16"-24 became a standard alternative for small diameter barrels. To cut these threads, the barrel needs to be at least .562" in diameter, and to safely mount a suppressor the barrel must be at least .662" in diameter.
All threads are single point cut with a relief cut, so that any muzzle devices can be mounted without a spacer. All barrels are threaded in a lathe with a spider on both ends of the headstock. This allows us to move the barrel inside the center of the lathe. Since no barrel is exactly straight, and the outside of the barrel is exactly concentric with the bore, we actually run a dial indicator in the muzzle of the firearm, and get the muzzle section of the barrel running exactly concentric with the centerline of our lathe before cutting threads. This takes a little more setting up, but it ensures (essentially) that the threads we cut will be exactly aligned with the bullet's path of travel when it leaves the barrel.