This is our machined aluminum trigger ONLY. Just the trigger. Not a trigger group. Not a trigger job. Just the trigger, and maybe some springs and stuff if you choose to do that.
Let me repeat. This is just the machined aluminum trigger, like in the picture to the left. Just so we are all clear. So don't buy this and then complain when ONLY A TRIGGER shows up in the mail. Because I know someone is going to do that...
But in all fairness, it's a pretty sweet trigger, and you probably won't be disappointed. Assuming, of course, that you have a BX trigger group to put it in. In case you've been living under a rock in the 10/22 world, you're aware that the BX trigger has radically different internal geometry than a normal 10/22 trigger group, while working in the same housing. As such, we needed a different trigger to be able to do our trigger work.
And let me tell you, this trigger with it's trigger return system makes a massive difference! The factory BX trigger isn't exactly bad, but it's long and squishy. The torsion trigger return spring is smoother and doesn't stack quite the same as the plunger based spring that they use, so all of a sudden instead of just long squishy movement, it helps to make 'stages' in the trigger appear. Of course without polishing and the rest of the work we do, there may still be creep. But this trigger helps a lot. The overtravel stop is of course very nice, and it's been our experience that this trigger greatly reduces the pre travel in the trigger as well. Your millage may very on that one, but that's what we are seeing.
As far as we know, we are the only ones producing billet triggers for the BX trigger group at this point. Every trigger is CNC machined (not cast), and then finished in your choice of Cerakote.
THESE ARE NOT DROP IN! They will require some fitting, and if you elect to get the (awesome) trigger return spring kit, that will require permanent modification to your trigger housing. Read the directions below, and make sure that you are comfortable with the work before you order the parts.
(We are working on a video for installing these triggers, but until then all we have is this write up. If you're just buying the trigger, the Brimstone Trigger Fitting Guide is all you'll need. If you're buying the full trigger Kit, you'll ALSO need the Brimstone Trigger Kit Installation Guide)
I think that about covers it. And again... this is just the trigger.
Great color, precision made. Be prepared to do a little fitting (minor stoning ) the results are great. It feels like it reduced trigger pull but need to check on gage. Will buy again!
I've got 3 of these in Brimstone trigger jobs alone. Stole the trigger itself from one to put in another BX housing, and had to replace just the trigger. The one I got had some machining problems, but a file straightened that out. This was old stock, and highly unlikely the next guy will end up with this issue. Bought another for my brother in law, installed no problem. The trigger allows for the torsion return spring and the overtravel stop which makes a big difference in trigger feel. This will NOT reduce your trigger pull. His BX pulled at 2lbs before, and at 2lbs after. But the feel is where you see the improvement. No more flexible plastic Ruger trigger, its solid. The flat face gives a consistent pull on how your finger grips the trigger. The fact that you can customize color is just a bonus. I've bought a pair of Bronze, one OD green, one silver, and one Kraken so far. Great products. I would never buy the trigger alone, always the full kit. Installation is easy if you have a cordless drill. Even a cheap one, as you are most likely drilling a plastic housing. Check a Youtube video for where to drill the return spring hole for that set screw. Simple and easy. You will need a Tap handle (Lowes/Home Depot), but a shade tree mechanic could actually get by with a pair of vice grips if it came down to it (remember, you're probably working with a plastic trigger housing). The overtravel stop might look a bit difficult, but its not. You simply drill right through the existing plunger hole. That hole is drilled at an angle from the factory, and the supplied drill bit will go right in there from the bottom. Make sure and thoroughly tape up the bottom of your trigger guard to prevent the bit from scratching/marring it. Maybe even some hard plastic something underneath the tape if you don't have a steady hand. Get that in order, chuck up the bit in a drill, and drill right up through the old return plunger hole and through the back of the trigger guard. You aren't hurting anything. Take your tap and go from the rear of the housing forward to tap in the set screw threads. Once done, take your allen key and insert and thread your return set screw into that hole until it protrudes 1/8" into the trigger guard. From there you can fine tune. Easy, and a nice improvement.